African   Histories

The   African   Sickness

Kilimanjaro National park

Kilimanjaro is a mythical name, is member of that small group of places that its single wide-awake mention in the listener images of legend, myths and adventures, as they can be Samarkanda, Ghoa, and Zanzíbar. The own origin of its name is very uncertain; to me I like one that associates it to the Kilima words, of swahili mountain, and njaro, the producing demon of the cold, description that fits to him like a glove. Other sources mention the name in Masai de Ngàje Ngài, that means the House of God. All these thoughts and many are crowded more in my head when I go to the Norlfolk Hotel, living vestige of the last brilliant colonial of Kenya, inaugurated in 1904, and that has been witness of the putting of length of several generations of high class of Nairobi. Although he has been remodelado recently, rezuma decay by all his flanks. From it leaves my shuttle here, as it enchants to them to call to them to the people, and who are not more than a van of the thousands which they pululan by Africa, adapted to the transport of travellers. With an almost British puntualidad, to 8 a.m. we put ourselves in way, the route he is long, about 450 km, and includes a visa more to add to my motley passport. We arrived at the border on the 11 a.m., and my surprise is when when directing to me towards the cabin of passport control I see a truck very similar to which served to me as home during the 2 last weeks, that I say similarity, is identical, is my truck; I go raudo towards him, but already it has started and it is penetrating in Tanzania; that it suffers, desired to see to me that new group went, know towards where they went, and awhile chat with Greg and Kate, our guides, although it is possible that they were not they, I hope that they are of rest after the exhausting trip to gorilas of Virunga. The border proceeding is enough express, in spite of the enormous amount of people who that way move; it must be a border with enough movement, where evils that can cause an uncontrolled growth of the number of tourists and travellers are observed perfectly all who in the last years, mainly from the success of the film Memories of Africa, have taken place in Kenya. Throughout they are possible to be seen Masais, that tribe of beautiful and athletic bodies who in my memories of childhood always will be associate to soldiers hunting a lion with her hands and dances with jumps towards the sky, crowded now on the vehicles wanting to sell its necklaces and glass beads, besides to receive to let itself make photographies. Where it is the Masai pride, that faced during centuries whatever it invaded its territories, and it put in check several times to the British administration. The destiny of the Masai seems oriented to its confinación in a reserve, like those of the few North American Indians who are, fichando from 9 to 5 for its exhibition in front of the tourists. One, that tries to be plus a traveller who a tourist, does not let think that, although not looked for, the damage is irremediable that we do through where we happened. Ernest Hemingway, in his splendid story the Snows of the Kilimanjaro, tells that " near the top she is the dry skeleton and ice cream of a leopard, and nobody has been able to never explain itself what was looking for the leopard by those heights ". It is more than the thousands of legend that tells on the Kili and that they have made it so famous. The second part of our route takes to Arusha, city of step and important commercial route to us, that it is reflected in the multitude of stores that cross their main streets; close it is also the Airport the International of the Kilimanjaro, and although one is already not created anything on the denominations of the sites, it will be surprised days after his cleaning and comfort. A brief shutdown in Arusha for ascent and slope of travellers, and to my side feels like a blond woman, of very pale complexion and Nordic aspect, that confirms when we began to speak and it says to me that she is Danish; although to me it interests more to speak with local people as soon as I arrive at a site, the history of Erika, who therefore is called our Danish, sounds interesting, since it has been working for the UN in Nairobi for 4 years like external collaborator, and every 3 months it must leave the country to renew his visa. Protected as his simple collaborator and of civil employee of elite it does not tell those histories me that never are published in mass media, and that make see the things you of a way different without the filter from the governments and it mediates them. Although it is not the this site more adapted to expose them, its narrations on corruptelas of the governments of Zaire, Tanzania and Kenya around the refugees of Rwanda and Burundi shake to you when you think that they are playing with human lives, not tens, if not thousands, million people that are suddenly forced to leave their homes, to ramble hundreds of kilometers in laborious conditions, to often die wire drawings in a roadside ditch, or to malvivir in a field of refugees where their hopes are extinguished slowly; that is the currency of change that uses the governments to obtain but bottoms of the UN and other organizations, who serve to a large extent to maintain prebendas of the high civil employees, such as cars and houses of luxury, trips in deprived airplanes, et cetera, et cetera; luckily, the other face of the currency also is in Africa, as I will be able to verify that same day. The arrival to Moshi, the city nearest the Kili, about 50 departure km and center of most of the expeditions, makes me return to the reality after the thoughts that before I have shaped in paper, I take leave of my friend Erika (the express is incredible in Africa which you can intimar with people, you are of step, surely you will not return to never see them more, and for that reason everybody is opened more easily) wishing luck him, and, once I have left to the luggage in guest house where I lodge, childbirth to the hiring of my trekking to the Kili. From the creation of the National Park of the Kilimanjaro in 1973, the access of visitors very is limited in amount and freedom of movements, since it is obligatory the hiring of guides and porteadores, in addition to the payment of the tariffs of entrance to the park, lodging and manutención in the refuges, and, finally, rate of rescue, something whose only name troubles to you. The prices vary much based on the time of the year in which it rises, basically by I balance of supply and demand between visitors and guides and porteadores. By the amount of people who seem to live on this, the ascent to the Kili must be one of the currency sources more important of Tanzania. After a few returns, I am decided by an intermediate tariff, 500 dollars, between the 400 and 700 that have gotten to me to request. The rest of afternoon the step rambling by the streets and the commerce, where all the material of imaginable scaling can be bought or be rented. When queen Victoria of England distributed the control of Eastern Africa with the Germans, the Kilimanjaro was in Kenya, but the queen, in a generosity act that only the owners of the world can do, modified the agreements and it gave his grandson to him, the Kaiser Wilhelm, the Kilimanjaro like birthday present. Then it was not happened to think that it was losing a very important source of income, something to him that to them usually is not ignored anywhere to the British of the world in which they have been based. My return to the dusk to guest house house where I lodge depara there a surprise, since the clouds that covered the sky have cleared, and alongside, to 50 km, but so close as if you could touch it due to its impressive size, is the Kilimanjaro, Kili for the friends; seeing it thus, with last sun rays shining in his eternal snow cap, it seems a cosy mountain, almost friend, and not that prodigy of the nature, in which you face the more abrupt changes of temperature, from +30 to -20, that could devour to you in its glaciers of 100 meters of height without nobody never returned to know of you. While I observe it extasiado, the rest of lodged in guest house goes to the garden, and by the expressions of his faces, it seems as if my thoughts were repeated clónicamente in their heads. We appeared, and I discover that 4 British will be my companions in the next days, until half of route, whereas a Dutch Enck call that had landed the same day in direct flight from Amsterdam, yes will be my companion until the summit, or almost. The group completes a Belgian call Pierre, who after the supper, and in animated to char it, comments us that sans Frontiers works in Nairobi for " Medecins ", the organization mother of Doctors without Borders, Spanish section of this international ONG, that is always where any humanitarian tragedy takes place; their story on as they are organized, the precariedad of their works and conditions contrast deeply with which there was counted Erika to me on the UN, since in its case practically everybody has temporary contracts with simply worthy pays, and the bureaucratic fixed expenses are minimum; him comment my conversation with Erika and his answer is that the UN is necessary because is the only organization who has the force sufficient to press to corrupt governments like the one of Zaire to give permissions of landing to airplanes or convoys with humanitarian aid of ONG`s, that in another case would remain in their sites of origin, or what is worse they would be sacked by the own soldiers who theoretically would have to protect to them. With this vision of the 2 faces of the currency, one remains with the printing that only 10% of which is sent as it helps these countries it arrives at his destiny, but that in any case is far better that nothing. I wake up me to 4 a.m., and the excitation of my next adventure prevents me to continue the rest; I show by window to assure me that the Kilimanjaro follows there, trimming phantasmagoric under light of moon increasing that will be full when it undertakes the last nocturnal scaling to the Uhuru to almost 6,000 meters, that is the top of the Kibo, one of the 3 volcanos which they compose the Kili, with the Mawenzi and the Shira. Although they are not extinct and still the fumarolas of sulfur, the last registered eruption can be seen and be smelled data of 200 years ago, reason why I hope that it is not happened to him to wake up now, I am going enough to have with arriving until the top. With the first lights in the morning we had breakfast strong because the feeding is key for the success in the ascent; it is recommended to consume 4,000 calories per day at least, and to drink about 4 liters of water, something that little people do by the difficulties in transferring all the food and the water, but that is basic to avoid " pájaras ". We were located in the van that will take us to the entrance of the park, located to 2,000 of altitude and that supposes the beginning of the ascent; I think that we have already saved those 2,000 meters of ascent, reason why the top is much more close, are technical of autosuggestion that I do not know if they work, but the moral is very high at least the entrance to the park is called Marangu, also the name of the route to follow, most classic and comfortable, since the others force to spend the night in store and to take all the material of kitchen, whereas we, bourgeois revolting, sleep in refuges and the food processes the guides; I take leave of Pierre Belgian, who has chosen the Mweka route, the one of most difficult, and him desire much luck. I make the inscription proceedings in the registry book and observe that a group of Basoues who have registered themselves before has put in the section of country, Euskadi; it did not hope to find me with Basque radicals here, I interrogate myself on the confusion of the people who watch the book and she is wondered what exotic country is that Euskadi call. The group, the 4 British, Enck and I, joined with the guide and porteadores, and we distributed the weight; he is graceful to see as knapsacks of last generation are tied with cords like vulgar taken fardos and on the head like more comfortable system of transport for the porteadores; if they knew that some of those knapsacks costs $200. A poster indicates the names of the refuges of the route, their altitude, and the considered time to us of arrival between refuge and refuge; for this first day the thing seems smooth because the poster indicates 3 hours until Commanded, ours first shutdown; the route is perfectly noticeable and runs in a tropical forest, splashed of plantations of coffee, one of main products for the economy of the zone. The group stretches and each one goes to its rate; Enck and I have a seemed rate, reason why we go together, with the result from which we arrived at the refuge in 2 hours instead of 3; I begin to have the sensation of which the commentaries were a little exaggerated on the difficulty of the ascent, did not know that in a moment it would eat my words to me " with patatitas ". We waited for to the rest of the group eating lunch-pack cold which they have given, that consists of a chocolate bar, 2 hard eggs us, dry fruits and juice of orange, pure calorie. When they arrive the guide and the porteadores invite us to a tea with pastes, oclock was accidentally the 5 p.m.. After the tea I occur a stroll until the Maundi crater, to 30 minutes of the refuge and from where the top of the Kili is descried perfectly; I feel in the edge of the crater, of about 200 ms of diameter, perfectly spherical and place setting of vegetation in its totality, looking for a little calm, but the task feels like almost impossible, because a first group of Japanese removing to photos throughout and soon a group from... Catalan, me they prevent it; in the short while with himself to have left and only contemplate I with ecstasy the sun falling quickly on the top, so quickly that when I realize she has done at dusk, reason why resume the return to the camping; when I arrive the British already they have had supper, so I only have supper, the refuge, rather group of refuges, are quite pleasant cabins of wood, 4 to 12 seats, and one cabin common with a dining room in the inferior plant and bunks for 40 people in the superior plant; activities to make are very little, so to 9 p.m. I am in the bed, with the result of which to 4 a.m. already wide-awake and I am cleared, I leave outside and the almost full moon illuminates of spectral form all the surroundings; it is enough cold and I decide to return to the refuge. The dawn shows to beautiful impresionist images between the smoke of the cabins and the fog that the zone covers, seems as if the refuges were happening of gaseous state to solid slowly, showing between the fog shreds. Although the Kili is known from the antiquity, and Ptolomeo already mentioned it in its writings, it was not until 1889 that were promoted until the top, at least by European, since the legend attributes to Menelik I, king of Abyssinia and son of Salomón and the queen of Saba, the ascent until the top of kibo, place to which went to die accompanied of a group of slaves loaded with a fabulous treasure. In 1848, the scientists of the Royal Geographic Society had discredited to the Swiss missionary Johann Rebmann, who swore to have seen a summit snow-covered closely together of Ecuador, something that did not enter its schemes and therefore rejected of plane. The second day of march presents/displays the first abrupt change of landscape of the several that will follow one another in the next days, since the tropical forest takes step very beautiful to an alpine prairie, populated with trees in its low part, that are disappearing as it is promoted, taking step to lobelias and to the giant senecios, a species of cactus but that only have leaves in the superior part, as a plume, of up to 3 meters of height; I think that a film of an extraterrestrial world could be rolled with no need of scenery. The route is enough more length than the previous day, in addition the heat tightens and no longer we have the cover of the vegetation that it protected to us of the sun; thus everything, I arrive at the refuge of Horombo, located to 3,720 ms of average altitude in 3 hours and instead of the 5 that hoped; I am in total form and that raises the moral to me. Before arriving at the refuge we reached to know the concept rate of rescue, since to a vertiginous speed, 2 porteadores descend with a subject stretcher to shoulders; only it gives time to see us that she is a woman, and incredibly seems that it goes quite safe. With the conviction with which our security more or less is covered, the arrival to Horombo glimpses already. To these hours the refuge is very calm because still those have not arrived nor that have descended nor those that ascends from the refuge Commanded; the fact of to have arrived soon allows to take a refuge me of 6 seats for our group, and not to have to spend the night in the common refuge, like the previous one, with a continuous one to go and to come from people. I patiently wait for to that my porteador arrives more than 3 hours, in the morning I have observed that seemed ill, because to that early hour already it was sudando like a yearling calf, and to its arrival with the knapsack its state is even worse; I say it to the guide and its answer is a shoulder shrinking, like saying and to me that, if does not work does not receive, that is who it is the first one interested in following. The refuges are more and more basic as we are ascending, and here are no showers, only water faucets and latrines; when arriving at the refuge I have observed that runs a brook close, I go towards him saying so that the water is not very cold, because I really need a bath; luckily the water is very clean and not too cold so I occur a super bath in pricked ball, followed by which they have seen me and copied the idea. Our neighbors of Catalan refuge are the group of that the previous day was in the Maundi crater, char it with them and they tell the odyssey me that they have had to happen to arrive until, because they had paid from Spain the trip, and lost the connection in London there, so they had flown via the Cairo, others by Nairobi, with the result of which practically to all there were lost the luggage to them, and had had to rent all the equipment in Moshi; I, which I have been 3 weeks in Africa traveling without stopping and I have not had nor the minimum mishap, cross my fingers so that she follows thus, a situation of this type can ruin a perfectly planned trip. I pay attention to which leaned to one of the knapsacks they have a solar paddle and I ask to them if they have invented a device to move by solar energy, because in that case they are going away to make millionaires; they say me that no, but the device does not stop being original, because it accumulates electricity during the day, and at night they connect a shipper of video batteries, with which they have energy guaranteed for all the trip; I hope that it does not rain to them or he is cloudy because then the invention is little going to be practical. To this altitude, we have left the cloud sea underneath, which makes the putting of specially spectacular sun, with the exit of the Full Moon in the horizon; also he is incredible the fast thing that lowers the temperatures, you almost can notice in your body the reduction degree to degree, I believe that in an hour it has been able to descend about 15 degrees, because 90 minutes before one was well to the sun, and now the temperature is safe below zero degrees; we will verify it to the following morning when when going to the faucets to wash to us, these do not throw nor drop of water, is congealed. The guide seems not to be in a hurry to begin the route to the refuge of Kibo, when arriving we will know why. The rest of the group remains today in this refuge to become aclimated itself to the altitude and to confront the ascent with more guarantees. Enck and I began to walk without waiting for the porteadores, the landscape have returned to change, have disappeared all the vegetation and we were in a totally stony desert desert, with a dark earth without no doubt of volcanic origin. We began to notice the altitude and a enough frozen wind annoying supposes an additional difficulty; not to cool us imprimimos a strong rate of march, and, like the day previous, we arrived to the refuge of Kibo with enough advance; from long before arriving sees because it has a zinc tile roof that refulge with the sun; it is a stone refuge, not of wood like the others, and it has common dormitories, without no type of water, only is located to 4,700 meters and the surroundings are totally barren, with enormous rocks and the Vista of the Mawenzi mount to a side and by another one the impressive vertical wall of almost 1000 meters that we will have to raise tonight; the body begins to suffer itself of the altitude, and so fast moan to have raised, because I begin to feel bad; it must be something habitual, because the reason that the guide was not in a hurry to promote era because until noon they are cleaning the refuge of vomitonas at night previous of people who have not been able to hold until the exit. We had supper very early, to 5, because the ascent is going to begin to midnight; the annoyances increase and when the finishing having supper I must leave running to vomit, luckily I can arrive until the outside of the refuge; the temperature is already very cold and I think that if here there is -5, in the top it must be a refrigerator; Swedish that has made the ascent a previous night they comment to me that its thermometer marked -20 and that they had passed much cold; I think that if Swedish, the customary ones to the low temperatures of their country, has had much cold, I, espa6nolito meridional, am going away to be left pajarito, but it is not moment for lamentations, the top this there, to a step, and we are not going away to crack now; I lie down with the desire of which altitude sickness one goes to me. The few hours of dream pass in a light sleep by the annoyances, and when they raise to midnight, they say us that several people have had to lower to the previous refuge because they were very badly; attempt to have breakfast the tea with cakes that offer to us, but my body rejects them of plane and I must leave to vomit again; go, I must myself eat " with patatitas " the one of which it was not going to be so difficult. I put all the possible layers of clothes, I seem the Michelin doll, but I am not arranged to have left hard there above; the Full Moon has a size that to me seems to me the double of the habitual one, perhaps is that we are so near the sky that we were above to San Pedro with its handful of keys; they say that the reason of beginning the ascent to midnight is because therefore dawn is seen from the top, but I believe that the real reasons are less romantic and aesthetic, because the ash track that is called on to raise to us now is congealed by the cold, whereas during the day she is as soft as the sand of the beach and would do the ascent doubly tired; in addition the fact to not seeing the almost vertical slope that we undertake avoids the vertigo; he is everything very studied, except the effects of the height on your organism, since once again I begin to vomit in spite of not to have eaten anything, and it hurts the chest much to me; I begin to think about retirement, the cold is very intense and if you stop yourself to rest penetrates until the marrow to you, so you cannot almost walk nor quedarte quiet, slight plan. I say to the guide the magical word to him of the Kili " Pole Pole Sana ", that means " Slowly, Slowly ", and we followed the ascent in a continuous zigzag to cushion the slope. When raising the Vista the lights are seen of which they precede to us as if they were fireflies with his frontal lanterns of miner. They are not really necessary because the light of the moon is very strong and it sees very well I begin to recover and to feel better, and is when Enck begins to vomit without stopping, we stop in a small grotto to about 5,500 meters and the guide sinks to us in the misery when a cigarette ignites calmly; Enck and I watched myself and they give desire us to strangle it; a as insignificant gesture as to ignite pitillo then becomes a challenge and has so deep a psychological load that hundirte of everything or darte can renewed forces, thing that happen to us to Enck and me, in that order, since Enck decides to leave when arriving at the Gillman`s point, located to 5.685m in the edge of the crater, when it already begins to blunt the dawn. Attempt to convince it that only has left 200 meters of unevenness, and that just as I have recovered also will do it, but its aspect is quite bad, and I decide not to insist. I remained Tony, the guide, and single before the danger, and I say myself that if still smoked it would request pitillo to him, but do not smoke and either I do not think to touch the devil. I die of thirst, but the water of the canteen is frozen, soon people with more experience will say to me that there is to put it between the clothes so that she conserves heat and she does not freeze, the pain is not to have heard the advice before. The sun leaves by the horizon with a sweeping force, flooding in second whole with a yellow light that gives a totally new perspective him to the mountain; they begin to distinguish with all clarity the immense glaciers that are going to lay out our last effort until the top; the light of the sun refulge of such way on the frozen walls that one is not surprised of which the African thought that the top was covered with silver; although it continues doing much cold, the sensation is very pleasant because it seems that in awhile you will be able ponerte in short trousers, so is the force and intensity of the star king; one thinks that from a little while to another one the vertical walls of glaciers of 100 ms of stop can be worn down, offering a unique and unique spectacle; it is not thus and we limited ourselves to walk the last stretch on the ice, with our heart percutiendo at full speed not as much by the accumulated fatigue as by the emotion to arrive at the top of Africa, of to have won to njaro, the producing demon of the cold. Back they are left all the thoughts derrotistas and the moments of flaqueza, we do with them curruncho and we throw it to the sweepings. At 7 in the morning we arrived at the top, noticeable with a monolith that You say " you are in the Uhuru peak, the highest point of Africa, 5895 ms ", where I become a photo Tony and. I move away meters because in the top there is people who only know to express her joy mounting an enormous scandal instead of enjoying in silence of the enormous gift that has made us the nature when allowing us be there. In the distance I see stand out the silhouette of the Meru mount, that next to the Kili seems a small hill. During the return to the refuge I begin to clear the multiple layers of clothes, since 3 t-shirts, 1 sweater shirt, 1 polar lining and chaquetón are now excessive. I am enjoying the landscape calmly that before I could not see, and that now one feels like to me so wonderful that it causes sorrow to me that Enck has not been able to arrive until the end; when we arrived at the vertical ash wall, I notice myself of the enormous unevenness that we have surpassed hours before; we began to descend with precaution, the guide it watches and it begins to lower to me running the slope in vertical, sinking in the ash until the knee, that serves as brake; attempt to imitate to him and after awhile I discover that it is like esquiar without skis, so we sent the 2 down to pending open tomb raising dust; I front fall 2 times of ass and one, but as now the ash is in favor very soft of the heat, there is no problem; the result is that we lowered in 15 minutes which took 6 hours to us and a pile of efforts to raise, that paradoxical, we went the life doing useless things to satisfy our ego, when that redirigida affluent energy could make so many workings beneficial, but good as it says to the Olympic motto " more stop, but far, more hard ", we took it in the blood and we cannot avoid it. When arriving at the refuge it seems a hospital of convalescent, much people are laid down because they have retired or simply they have not raised by altitude sickness; vomitonas in the people corridor are several who has not been able to arrive until outside, and Enck is laid down trying to recover; I say to him that the best thing than we can do is to lower the sooner, altitude sickness only goes descending, so one gets dressed and we began the slope; 2 hours later we are in Horombo, and the malaise has happened. They are the 12 of the noon and we have already walked 10 hours, is necessary to see as some days spread. The slope kamikaze of the track has introduced dust until in the last pore of my skin, reason why I return to occur a bath of immersion in the brook. I am with the group of Basoues, about 10, who also arrive from the top, have done summit all, I suppose that they are of the same Bilbao. The refuge we shared it with a German pair that is of ascent, and only I give an advice them: " Pole Pole Sana ". We rose very early because I want to make the slope in a moment to see the possibility later of advancing my flight to Zanzíbar, anticipated for 2 days, for the same day, I have a feeling that it is going to be a perfect site to rest of all the accumulated load of 3 weeks without breathing. We lowered in 2 hours of Horombo to Commanded, we stopped 5 minutes and we followed, we crossed the cloud sea, and begins to rain; even so I arrive at the entrance from the park to 10h30, am first in making the reduction and the one of the reception remains a little surprised, but our guide confirms to him that yes, that we have arrived at the top and that extends the summit diploma to us; I write several postal there same to count my feat, and we take shuttle to go to Moshi, after dismissing of Tony and the porteadores to us. The route to Moshi we do it in a sigh, and when we arrived at the agency, they give a quite horrorosa t-shirt to us, but that says: " I have raised the top of the Kilimanjaro "; in order to be conceited he will come well. They confirm to me in the agency that has been able to change the flight for Zanzíbar for the following day, and that produces an enormous joy to me. Enck starts off on the following day for safari photographic, and I request a photo to him of a lion if it gets it to see, since it is the only animal that I have not seen, and in Zanzíbar I do not believe that there is. We were to have supper in its hotel, a normal supper, but that after the precarious menus of the Kili of the last days one feels like to us to manjar of Gods. Although my flight is to 15h, the conductor is going to gather me to 10h because he must take to a group from people to the airport, to only 50 km of Moshi, but the highway is in extension works, and as much the machinery as the vehicles that go in the 2 senses not stops at no moment, pass getting up a cloud of dust that it prevents to see nothing; the step rather badly, but the driver es ***reflx mng itself and is singing African songs, so I decide to forget to me the subject and I also put myself to sing. At 11h30 we arrived at the airport and I am surprised enough, because he is great, he is clean, it has zone of stores and cafeteria and even conditioned air. I invoice my luggage and I read awhile while I ask the type of airplane that will be the one that takes to Zanzíbar; when it appears and we make the boarding, I realize of which they have not reviewed the hand luggage to me, could take any thing that nobody would have found out; as they say in Africa, " akuna matata ". The airplane is of the company Air Precission, and his logotipo is a precious antelope giving a jump; it is a Cessna turboprop of 50 seats, that goes almost full, and the crew is very amiable, speak English with that so colorista African accent; nothing else to take off, we happened to short distance of the Kili, and she remembers to me that the previous day was that way above; the trip is very pleasant and 1 hour later we landed in the airport of Zanzíbar between palms of all the sizes.

Go To: